By Mikyung Kim / Hong Kong
I got four wisdom teeth taken out in Seoul last Monday. It was a bit strange transitioning from constantly moving and doing a gazillion things in India one day to being basically comatose and immobile the next day in Korea. I was given the nickname “The Grinch” because my cheeks were so swollen and green from bruising, haha!
Wisdom teeth survival guide: stock up on Korean yogurt and fruit juices!
And of course, Jook (죽 / Rice Porridge)
This one was made from fish bone broth
Jeon Bok Jook (전복죽 / Rice Porridge with Abalone)
Mi Yuk Gook (미역국 / Seawood Soup)
Gae Sal Jook (게살죽 / Rice Porridge with Crab Meat)
The main reason I was in Korea was to move my grandfather and great grandmother’s graves. Traditional graves in Korea are large grass and dirt mounds built on sides of mountains. So basically on nearly every mountain you look at, there’s a grave. In an initiative to prevent Korea’s mountainsides from becoming a mass cemetery, the Korean government strongly encouraged citizens to instead cremate their loved ones and consolidate them into a family mausoleum.
My great grandmother’s grave in Pusan, Korea
Food and a shot of Soju (소주 / Korean Rice Wine) for my great grandmother
Paying our respects
We then dug up the grave mounds, unearthed the bones, and brought them to the crematorium. Even though I’ve never met my grandfather and great grandmother and they’ve been deceased for decades, it felt like they had just passed away that day.
We then drove three hours to Geo Chang (거창) where my grandfather was born. As everyone knows, “Kim” (김) is a very common Korean last name. So Koreans rely on categorization by geography to distinguish the various “Kim” clans. Geo Chang is the village that my “Kim” family originates from.
The Kim Family Mausoleum of Geo Chang
Traditional Korean Food for Funeral Rites
The tops of fruits are cut off so our ancestors can enjoy the food easily. Chopsticks and spoons are placed on each dish throughout the ceremony for our ancestors to utilize.
We offer the food and wine to our ancestors first and once the ceremony is complete, we all sit down and enjoy the traditional feast prepared by all the Kim women.
My grandfather built this lake in front of my grandma’s house
To reap fortune – this hangs above the entrance to the living room
My grandmother’s homemade tofu curd
I generally like stinky stuff, but this was crazy smelly!
Grandma’s got style
Manually handcutting massive amounts of Duk (떡 / Rice Cake)
My grandma’s homemade Chap Sal Duk (찹살떡 / Rice Cake with Sweet Filling)
THIS IS MY FAVORITE! I endured the post-wisdom teeth operation pain and ate this because it’s that good and hard to find a delicious version of. This had the perfect amount of filling, and the Duk was smooth and juicy. Ahhhh….!!!
Homemade Deep-fried Red Pepper snack
Homemade Tofu & Dipping sauce
More Duk! HAHA I LOVE THIS STUFF!
Grandma’s organic soybeans from her farm
An abandoned traditional Korean home – at least over 100 years old according to my aunt
A very old school Korean kitchen
Stovetops from back in the day
Back in Seoul – King Crab x2! Another favorite of mine.
King Crab SASHIMI
This stuff is mad hard to find! My family had this in Naeba, Japan for the first time many years ago and had an intense craving for it since. The second time we went to Naeba, the restaurant had closed! Since then we had been searching for this, and how lucky that we found this in Korea! Now we can have it all the time when we’re in town, hurrah! Great way to end my liquid porridge and yogurt diet.
Beef bone and parts at my aunt’s local meat store in Seoul
A whole beef leg bone cut up in pieces for boiling soup – my dad’s parting gift to my grandma
Chocolate Covered Classics 
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